What should I do to an inherited 94?


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 1:57 am
I finally got my login permission! This is my first post. Hi, everyone!

Several weeks ago, I received my granddad's Model 94. Serial number puts the manufacture date around the middle of 1941. It's a 20" barrel, chambered in .32 Win Special.

I have a couple questions about it.

First question:

I consider it a family heirloom and have no interest in selling it. I will pass it down to my daughter when I kick the bucket. That said, I would like to know a ball park figure for insurance purposes. Any rough estimates of value?

Second question, and apologies for the long explanation:

Grandpa liked to hunt, and he wasn't interested in keeping the rifle pristine, though he probably cleaned the barrel occasionally. It still looks shiny after a cleaning with a Boresnake.

After grandpa passed, my uncle used it to hunt for several years until he bought a new Remington semi-auto. While my uncle had it, he installed a Williams sight on it, which involved some drilling and tapping of the receiver. He also hand-etched some kind of Minnesota anti-theft registration number on the bottom of the lever.

Between the unremarkable configuration of a 20" barrel, chambered for .32 WS, alterations for the Williams sight, and the crude hand-etching, I figure any "collectible" value has long been destroyed.

But that's okay! The rifle now has some family history. It was used as a tool, much the way that I have treated the claw hammer that I bought when I was 23.

The blueing on the receiver is pretty much gone on the bottom, which is the place where a hand would hold it while walking through the woods. The barrel bands have almost no blueing left, and the barrel and magazine have many nicks and scratches. The furniture has nicks and scrapes, too. My uncle told me that there is an "emergency" round stored under the buttplate, but I haven't taken the buttplate off yet to verify.

I still want to shoot it. My daughter and I took it to the range and put 13 rounds through it, and it functions fine. We both love working the lever. Our wimpy shoulders just couldn't take the pounding, and we had to switch to pistols for the rest of the day.

So finally we get to the second question, which is:

What's the best way to keep the rifle in it's current condition? Should I try to "improve" it by cold blueing or leave it alone and just put oil on everything? Refinish the stocks?
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 7:28 am
Glad you joined us here photographix. My personal take on your family heirloom is, do not re-blue or deal with the scratches or dings. All these are important parts of the guns history as a tool. If you wipe the metal down once or twice a week for a couple of months, I prefer a silicon cloth over oily rag. the metal will become more acceptable. I would not refinish the stock. Us warm soapy water to degunk the wood. Rinse and allow to dry. After the wood is dry use Meguiar's Scratch X, or another brand equivalent, to brighten the wood. Apply 1 coat at a time, use sparingly each time. Apply as many coats as you need to suit your taste.
Last edited by redryder on Fri May 22, 2015 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 12:52 pm
Welcome to the Winchester Owners Forum sir...!!

I myself would leave the circa 1941 Model 94 as is...as it is a genuine piece of history as well as a family heirloom !!

Also...what red said above as far as the stock.

Post some pictures of it when you find the time....

.410
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 5:40 pm
Winchester rifle owners and collectors want firearms in ORIGINAL condition. The easiest way to destroy the value of the rifle is to do something stupid, like drill out the receiver so you can mount a scope on it. The value drops as much as 50 percent and collectors wouldn't buy it at all. The other thing is that a Model 94 chambered in 32 Special is more valuable that a 30-30 made the same year.
Follow the advice provided above, keep it lightly oiled and stored in a place that is not too hot. Room temperate at average humidity that works for humans AND firearms.



Mike T
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:01 am
Several years past, I was looking for a Winchester 73. Was after the movie came out. A fellow where I worked had several for sale. I went to his home to select a copy. Well their condition, to my dismay, and his, they were in a bank vault for many years without any maintenance. The bores were ruined with rust along with most of the other parts. I purchased the best of the worst....cheap. Had the barrel chrome relined. The other parts cleaned better than I expected. Was a good shooter and looked good.
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Copper BB
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 12:32 am
Sorry I haven't been around in a while. That life thing, you know....

Thanks for all the responses. I'll try dressing up the stocks with soap and water and ScratchX. I wonder if Murphy's Oil Soap would be okay?

This week, I'll have my photo studio set up for other things. I'll try to get some pictures then.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 7:44 am
Welcome back to the herd photo!

I have not used any polish other than Scratch X. I suspect any polish that does not dry to powder is acceptable.

I have cleaned a lot of firearms metal and wood. Each owner that has dealt with this has/will develop a feel for a special product brand and maintenance routine. The balance is to use products that are gentle and produce the best results. Avoid abrasives and polishes that can dry into the wood. Old metal and wood are extremely subjective to this outcome. Avoid steel wool as minute pieces can migrate into hidden areas and rust or interfere with movement. WD-40 is a no go, unless you are degreasing. Not to be used as an oil and left on the firearm. I have soaked disassembled parts over night in WD-40 or brake parts cleaning fluid. The brake parts cleaning fluid can be used to remove the WD-40 residue.

Do not neglect the bore.
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Copper BB
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 4:12 pm
Also, if it's going to be sitting around unfired for an extended period, you can protect the exterior with good ole Johnson's Paste Wax, no abrasives, no runoff, no drying out. And, for a 94 that's seldom used, you might choose a good rust preventative oil on the internals like Eezox.

In a dry climate neither of these precautions are really necessary. Occasional care and a little oil will work fine 98% of the time. But they look really good waxed. :D

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